Step-by-step guide

How to install laminate flooring step by step: an installer's guide from Medellín

This guide is written by the installers at Pisos Pro Medellín, a flooring-only company serving homes and businesses in Medellín and Eastern Antioquia. We walk through the method we use on site, including the measurements you will not find on the box.

We have been laying laminate and other floors for more than 15 years, with over 900 jobs completed. If you decide not to do it yourself in the end, you will at least know what to demand from whoever installs it.

  • Tools
  • Expansion gap sizes
  • 5 common mistakes
Natural oak laminate floor freshly installed in empty bedroom

Tools and materials you will need

You can get the job done with borrowed tools, but nobody should skip the moisture meter and the straightedge.

Tool or materialWhat it is for
Miter saw or jigsawStraight crosscuts and rip cuts on the planks; the jigsaw handles curves and notches
Rubber malletTapping without marking the surface or breaking the click joint
Tapping blockSpreading the blow across the plank edge to close joints without damaging the tongue
Pull barClosing the last plank of each row against the wall, where the tapping block will not fit
8 to 10 mm wedges or spacersHolding the expansion gap around the whole perimeter
Square and string line or chalk lineMarking 90° cuts and checking that the first row runs straight
Hygrometer or moisture meterTesting the subfloor and room air before you start
2 m aluminum straightedgeFinding humps and dips in the subfloor
Flush-cut jamb sawUndercutting door frames so the floor slides beneath them
Drill with hole saw bitBoring holes in planks where pipes come through
Polyethylene sheeting, tape and acoustic underlayVapor barrier and cushioning under the laminate

Before you start: moisture, level and acclimation

Three checks decide whether the floor lasts for years or lifts within months. All of them happen before you open the first box.

If the straightedge reveals big dips or humps, the fix is subfloor leveling and repair before any laminate goes down. And if moisture readings come back high, a proper moisture barrier goes in first.

  • Moisture: on a cement subfloor (contrapiso), below 2% by the calcium carbide (CM) method or under the manufacturer's limit; with an electronic meter, follow the device's scale.
  • Level: run the 2 m straightedge in several directions; a gap of more than 3 mm under it means you must level (some manufacturers ask for 2 mm).
  • Acclimation: leave the boxes closed and lying flat for about 48 hours in the room where they will go, not on the balcony or in the parking garage.
  • Existing tile: tap each tile with a screwdriver handle; any that sound hollow get fixed down or removed.

Laminate installation, step by step

This is the sequence we follow in a typical apartment. For 60 to 80 m², an experienced crew finishes it in 2 to 4 days.

  1. 1

    Vapor barrier and acoustic underlay

    Roll out 200-micron polyethylene with 20 cm overlaps taped shut, running it 3 to 5 cm up the walls. The acoustic underlay goes on top, butted edge to edge and never overlapped, so no lumps form.

    If your laminate has an attached pad, do not add a second one; keep the plastic sheet whenever the subfloor is cement. The excess climbing the wall is trimmed at the end, below the top of the baseboard.

  2. 2

    First row and expansion gap

    Start along the longest, straightest wall, tongue facing the wall, with wedges every 50 cm. Stretch a string line end to end: if the first row wanders, the error grows with every row after it.

    Leave 8 to 10 mm free against walls, columns, door frames and anything fixed. That clearance is what lets the floor move as humidity changes.

  3. 3

    Staggering joints and making cuts

    Offset the end joints by at least 30 cm from one row to the next. The offcut from each row can start the following one if it is longer than 30 cm.

    Work out the width of the final row before you begin. If it would come out narrower than 5 cm, trim the first row so the difference is split between both sides.

  4. 4

    Door frames and pipes

    Lay a scrap plank on its underlay on the floor and use the jamb saw to undercut the frame at that height. The laminate then slides underneath instead of leaving a jagged cut around the frame.

    For pipes, drill a hole about 16 mm wider than the pipe, cut the plank through the center of the hole and glue the piece back in. A pipe collar covers the gap.

  5. 5

    Transitions and baseboards

    Transition strips go at doorways and wherever the material changes, and baseboards (zócalos) hide the perimeter gap without pressing down on the laminate. Both are fixed to the wall or the subfloor, never to the planks.

    Our guide to baseboards and transition strips explains which one goes where.

5 mistakes that make laminate lift

No expansion gap

Laminate expands with humidity, and when it hits the wall it buckles upward. You usually see it in the middle of the room or at doorways.

No vapor barrier

On cement, vapor rising from the subfloor swells the HDF from underneath. The edges peak upward even though nobody spilled a drop.

Uneven base

Over a hump or a dip, the click joint works bent until it snaps. The giveaway is a plank that sounds hollow or gives when you step on it.

Lined-up joints

When end joints fall in the same spot on consecutive rows, they create a weak line that eventually splits. The floor also looks fake.

Fixed furniture on top

A built-in kitchen, closet or island screwed through the laminate pins it down and stops it floating. Install those units first, or cut the floor around them with its own gap.

DIY or hire an installer?

Click laminate is designed so a handy person can install it. The difference lies in the prep work and the finishing details, which is where most DIY jobs fall short.

Doing it yourself

  • Saves the labor cost of COP $16,000 to $26,000 per m²
  • Works well in a square bedroom with no change of flooring
  • Means buying or renting a saw, pull bar and meter
  • Takes two to three times longer the first time
  • If it fails, the manufacturer may deny the warranty for improper installation

Hiring an installer

  • Moisture and level tested before work starts
  • Clean cuts at doors, pipes and stairs
  • Transitions and baseboards included in the quote
  • Offcuts removed and a cleanup at the end
  • 1-year warranty on workmanship

Laminate installation with a warranty in Medellín

If you would rather we handle it, see the details of our laminate flooring installation service and book a site visit. We measure, show you options and give you an itemized written quote.

Pisos Pro Medellín

Tv. 6 #45-115, El Poblado, Medellín, Antioquia, Colombia

info@pisosmedellin.com

Monday to Saturday: 7:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.

Sunday: 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.

Free quote